To say that good food and drink are obsessions in Belgium is not an exaggeration.
This is, after all, a small country of 10 million people that produces over 600 different beers, many of which have their own specially shaped and labelled glasses in which to enjoy the national beverage.
Further, it's been my experience that the Belgians rival the French in their appreciation of good food - croissants, bread, moules (mussels), steak tartare (filet americain, as it's known in Belgium), grey North Sea shrimp, cheese of every kind, frites (fries) and of course, chocolate. (I will tackle chocolate in its own luscious article at a later date. It deserves as much.)
One of our favorite cities in the world is Bruges (or Brugge as it's known in Flemish). Now a UNESCO World Heritage site, Bruges was once a bustling and wealthy city in the Middle Ages, its wealth built upon its skill and trade in weaving. After its access to the North Sea - the Zwin - started silting in the 1500s, Bruges began a slow decline and became a forgotten city - 'Bruges-la-Morte' or 'Bruges-the-dead'. Progress (and warfare) passed it by and as a result its medieval town centre remained intact in its wealthy glory for tourists to enjoy and marvel at today.
But Bruges is also a very modern city with a working population that is not entirely focused on the tourist trade. The fact that Bruges residents still come into the town center to visit the fish market or do their own daily shopping is a testament to the health and continuing vibrancy of the city. And to the Belgians' love of good food.
One of the best and most popular high end food shops in Bruges is the Diksmuids Boterhuis. This tiny, gorgeous delicatessen is packed to the ceiling rafters with every kind of amazing meat and cheese available; from local, homemade country pates (choose the wedge size for your needs and it will be cut for you), artisanal meats and cheese (including 25 different fresh goat cheeses), to meat and cheese specialties from England, Italy and France.
Diksmuids Boterhuis has been in the care of the same family since 1936. In 1962, the daughter of the owner, Madame Lut Willems, took over the operation of the store with her husband. He does much of the shopping and product sourcing, while Madame Willems works behind the counter, serving her dedicated local customers, (including most of the best restaurants in Bruges), and those visitors lucky enough to find her.
In addition to the wide variety of charcuterie, Mme Willems stocks many other regional food products, such as chocolate, honey, breads, jams and mustards. You can also find several kinds of gingerbread Speculoos cookies that the kids will love.
Madame Willems clearly loves what she does, and takes great pleasure in showcasing the finest food products for locals and visitors to enjoy. Her busy work schedule doesn't allow much time for other pursuits - she loves playing the piano - but she says that those can wait for retirement, sometime in the (we hope not too soon) future!
Whether your visit to Bruges is a short day-trip or a longer tour of discovery, a visit to Diksmuids Boterhuis is a must-see stop on your itinerary.
[travellingmom tip: For a picnic feast, choose a small, fresh goat cheese, slab of pate, a loaf of bread, and a bar of Galler chocolate to finish it all. Delicieux!]